Technically, Ultrasuede: In Search of Fashion is a film about Halston, the first American designer who earned the respect and recognition of the French haute couture industry.
Halston was also the first designer to develop a "brand". Every celebrity today has one, but when he launched his collaboration with JCPenney in the 1980's, the concept went over like a lead balloon.
While the film does document Halston's incredible eye for design and his rise from fashion arbiter for First Ladies to corporate flunkie, in reality it is an exercise in vicarious living for everyone who wanted to be part of the Studio 54 set, but would not have been allowed because bedtime was at 8:30.
Ring Leader of the Glitterai
Set to a soundtrack of classic disco hits, Smith boogies his way through Halston's Bergdorf Goodman years (he was a milliner), the founding of his design house, the party years at Studio 54, and finally the purchase of his company by Beatrice Foods.
The biggest part of the film is focused on Halston's social life: the sexy living space, the posse of glossy models, and his outrageous boyfriend Victor Hugo.
Along the way, Smith is granted access into the designer's celebrated inner circle.
Halston's best friend Liza Minnelli swears that she never saw drugs or orgies at the legendary disco and urges Smith to look beyond the gossip when telling her friend's story.
Much to Smith's dismay, most of the other interviews are as tight lipped with the juicy details.
"He gave me my first job in this industry" said designer Ralph Rucci (considered by many to be the successor to Halston's genius). That is about all he will reveal about his life in the inner sanctum.
Another designer, Phillip Bloch, who was a bus boy at Studio 54, only remembers "six inches of glitter on the floor on New Year's Eve".
Hmmm...... Good thing that legendary party brothers the DuPont Twins were asked to include their two cents. (You'll see.)
Style Setter
The man whom Andre Leon Talley calls "innovative, modern, unique" is also the guy who took center stage at the 1973 Versailles Fashion Show. He also hosted the first American fashion show in China because he wanted to begin a trade alliance with the country.
Perhaps the most intriguing part of Halston's story is the man who is credited (by Talley) as being the father of the minimalist movement will probably be best remembered for his excessive lifestyle.
Who remembers that Halston was the first person to never put words on a perfume bottle? According to Paul Wilmot who ran the perfume division of the company, "Halston did not like words. We were the first ones to never use words in our campaign."
On the other hand, how many people remember "they were so impressed with your Halston dress" immortalized in Billy Joel's song Big Shot?
The Look and Soundtrack of a Decade
It is fitting that the man who epitomized the disco jet-set life should have been responsible for the ultimate Studio 54 song Freak Out.
Chic band member Nile Rodgers gleefully shares how he and his band members outraged at being invited to one of Halston's parties at the disco but then denied entrance at the door. Using their anger, they returned home to write a colorful response to Halston which was later edited to become Freak Out, the unofficial anthem of the party bar.
From his $200,000 floral bills for orchids to the $500,000 mirrored doors on his Olympic Tower showroom to the six figure birthday party for Bianca Jagger, Halston set the tone for fashion and fashionable living.
As a man-hole cover in New York City proclaims: "The 70's Belonged to Halston."
Teresa Wentz - Teresa Wentz holds a Master of Media Arts degree from the University of South Carolina. She has worked in various fields in the film ...
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